Sorry for the guys who do not understand italian, but this material will be in italian only (it's an old publication I prepared for a conference).
If you only understand a little bit, try to read it anyway and feel free to ask for clarifications.
Introduction
Establish reliable source of pulp in the broad sense is nothing short of an impossible, in fact, find out who has the first thought of mixing two ingredients as common as the flour and water, can not be certain what recently.
A much less ambitious task is to establish the origins of pasta in the Italian context, even though they are probably to be found in the ancient world almost as much as the concept of geographic 'Italy (Antiochus of Syracuse - V century BC).
We can therefore claim, with good approximation, the dough (at least in Italy) is born from the merger of two food cultures, the Etruscan-Roman tradition (or pasta) and the Middle East (or dried pasta).
The origins of pasta
E 'Etruscan the first track "indirect" in the history of pasta in Italy.
the grave "pads" of Cerveteri, Lazio, have been found decorations depicting the tools, even today, are used to make the pasta fresh pasta: the axis, the cutting board , the rolling pin and the toothed wheel (to cut the pasta). It is not a direct witness and not all etruscologi share the view that it is indeed tools used to prepare the dough, but it's certainly an interesting clue that supports the hypothesis that the Etruscans, in the fourth century BC, knew something like today's pasta.
II lagano n laganum greek and roman, are considered the ancestors of some fresh pasta in the Middle Ages will merge its roots in the regions north of downtown.
Its spread will touch later also the south of Italy, where the mix will include both the traditional wheat, and durum wheat (as it seems even the Romans did).
The Romans were also known from flour, water and cheese (the lixulae [1] ), which was obtained by a food is very similar to gnocchi, but that was considered very poor food, a true fallback food for periods of crisis in the supply of bread and wheat.
The Lagan to , even in the first and second century AD, consisted of a mixture in which he was engaged, at times, a chopped vegetable [2] (mainly lettuce) and was then fried in oil.
Horace, in 35a.c. , Describes such a frugal supper at the basis of "leeks, peas and lagana "
"[...] leeks et inde domum me to ciceris reffering laganique catinum "- then I return home (evening) to eat a bowl of leeks, peas and lagana (Satire VI - the books).
Marco Gavio Apicius in the first century (De re coquinaria) reported a sumptuous recipe made of thin sheets of dough interspersed with meats of various kinds, which closely resembles our baked lasagna with meat sauce:
Patina the Mayan
Accipies frustra suminis cocta, pulpas piscium coctas, pulpas pulli coctas. Haec omnia concides diligenter. Accipias patellam aeneam, ova confringes in caccabum et dissolves. Adicies in mortarium piper, ligusticum, fricabis, suffundes liquamem, vinum, passum, oleum modice, reexinanies in caccabum, facies ut ferveat. Cum ferbuerit, et obligas. Pulpas quas subcultrasti in ius mittis. Substerne diploidem patinam aeneam et trullam plenam pulpae, et disparges oleum et laganum pones similiter. Quotquot lagana posueris, tot trullas inpensae adicies. Unum laganum fistula percuties, in superficiem pones. A superficie versas in discum, piper asperges et inferet.
ie (roughly):
Baked daily
Get cooked pieces of breast meat cooked to sow and fish and chickens. Fragments all things well. Prepare a copper pan, take egg, break it in a saucepan and beat. Put in the mortar pepper, lovage and the lavorali; wet with fish sauce, with wine, sweet and a little oil, throw in the pot and cook.
When boil binds with the starch. Throw in the minced meat sauce you have prepared, stretch a double sheet of copper into the pan and fill it with meat, sprinkle with oil, just layers of dough. How many layers do you have so many layers of sausage.
paves the dough with a rolling pin and throw it tagliatala with a plate on top of pie. (Cook) covered with pepper and serve.
None of these recipes, however, provides a pre-cooking the pasta in boiling water, crucial to talk about pasta nell'accezione today.
must get to the sixth-seventh century to find the definition of "laganum" as "a loaf wide and thin, cooked in water first and then fried in oil " [3] .
Only in medieval literature, cuisine, however, the lasagna will finally be cited as such.
Cut into strips, squares or diamond wire, it will be used in many preparations to perfectly fit our modern conception of fresh pasta.
[ 1] Marcus Terentius Varro, De Latin (I century BC).
[2] University of Naucratis, Deipnosophistai - I learned at the table (second century ).
[3] Isidore of Seville - Etymologiae.
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