In Liber de coquina (XIV century), a famous medieval text of gastronomic literature, Ia lasagna is described as a type of pasta made from a sheet pulled by hand, cooked in water and topped with cheese:
De lasanis
Ad lasanas, accipe pastam fermentatam et fac tortellum ita tenuem sicut poteris. Deinde, diuide eum per partes quadratas ad quantitatem trium digitorum. Postea, habeas aquam bullientem salsatam, et pone ibi ad coquendum predictas lasanas.
Et quando erunt fortiter decocte, accipe caseum grattatum.
Et si uolueris, potes simul ponere bonas species puluerizatas, et pulueriza cum istis super cissorium.
Postea, fac desuper unum lectum de lasanis et iterum pulueriza; et desuper, alium lectum, et pulueriza et sic fac usque cissorium uel scutella sit plena. Postea, comede cum uno punctorio ligneo accipiendo.
The name given to this type of pasta is also to indicate Ia form the sheet once cut, not by chance that the English word losens (or loseyns or lozenge) and French Losange refer to its shape, rhomboid or diamond, taken by the pastry.
Other quotations from the lasagna to be found in various manuscripts of 1300: The Cookbook (Anonymous Tuscany), the text of a southern Anonymous but also the Cook Book (Anonymous Venetian):
Lasagne
If you do voy de quaressima lasagna, lasagne, and mussels in the toy coxere and Chapters monde noxious and well crushed and Maxey, and myths within the lasagna, and watch the smoke, and when space at the table, and polverizage de menestra species of zucharo.
The lasagna is also mentioned in the poetry of Jacopone (1230-1306), and chronicles Florence (years 1367-1370), written by Donald Pile, which speaks of a Sicilian in that city "had lasagnaia shop" in a paper in Genoa, where it refers to two lasagnari hired in 1351 by the owner Paganino Doria and boarded one of its ships .
than beam-matrix (lasagna), the pasta begins to take on different names and features: pappardelle, pancardelle, Croset, longevity, cutters, macaroni (in the pulp cut into thin ribbons), triticale, formentone, menudelli.
The "invention" of egg pasta, ravioli and tortellini
Since the Middle Ages and well-documented habit, typical of the Lombardy-Padana, add eggs to the mixture of wheat flour to make dough more valuable and consistent. Habit persisted, already a bit 'milder, Tuscany and Lazio, and disappeared almost entirely, when we arrived in Puglia, Basilicata and Sicily. Production areas, the latter, the largest wheat (in which, not coincidentally, will spread Ia tradition of dry pasta).
In Emilia Romagna, Tuscany, Liguria and Lombardy states also used to specify the number of eggs per kilogram of flour: usually 6-7, but 10 or more (even 40 egg yolks, as happens for tajarin Piedmont).
Starting from egg pasta, take body, always in the Middle Ages, the various regional traditions of filled pasta.
Next to the cake , evidently derived from it, thus was born the tortello .
The same Scappi Bartolomeo clarifies the concept:
" In this way you can do tortelletti the composition of all the pies and cakes overridden."
with eggs and flour, prescribes Liber de coquina tortelli is very subtle:
" flour ouis distemperetur cum, fac Tortella et que appointments dicuntur Crispell uel alio in Lagana, et
sint ualde tenuous."
In the Book of kitchen , a text dating from the fourteenth century, the anonymous author Tuscan specify:
" of pasta you can do instrumento omni you wants, horseshoe, buckles, rings, letters and every animal that you want. And puolo impious, if thou wilt and cocere in the pan with lard and Oglio and fish, and color as it wants .
tortello is therefore the envelope of any filling ( puolo replenish if you want ... ).
Vale, however, also vice-versa, ie the filling is not necessarily located inside the sheet, for there is the possibility of surrendering completely to the jacket, so here what the test called, not without ambiguity, ravioli .
The distinction between tortello and ravioli is rather clear at the above Liber de coquina, che propone di fare “ rauiolis ” della grossezza di un uovo da poter avvolgere in “ tortello gracili paste ”:
“ recipe uentrescam porci minute trittam siue pistatam cum ouis, caseo, lacte et speciebus aliis.
Et potes facere rauiolos diuersimode qui sic fiunt: In tortello gracili paste dure, inuolue de predictis ad quantitatem unius oui et coque in patella cum magna pinguedine.
Et loco paste, potes inuoluere in pellicula que uoluitur in circumstancia uentris eduli uel alico alio simili. Colora ut uis ”.
Nel corso del XIV secolo, i ravioli in particolare e, più in generale , la pasta ripiena saranno citati da molte altre fonti.
Giovanni Boccaccio (Decameron VIII - 3) for example describes , the mouth of Maso del Saggio, the land of plenty:
"And there was a mountain of grated Parmesan cheese on top of which were people that nothing else did they make macaroni and ravioli, cooked in broth capons, and then gittavan then down, and so on and seize more if you had none, and from there ran a stream of Vernaccia, the best I ever drank, not by having drop of water.. "
In the fifteenth century, the dumplings will collect a great happened in the kitchen rich and noble, as demonstrated in the art coquinaria Libro de Maestro Martino, cook first and then the Sforza Reverend Monsignor Chamberlain et Patriarch of Aquileia, which is stationed in Rome:
"Meat Ravioli in time.
To make ten times menestra: remove meza pounds of old case, et Another case of a pocho et a pound of fat belly pork fat overo tettha of a heifer, et cocila boiled so that it is well
defeat.
Dapo beat it well to remove bone et herbe well beaten, et pepper, cloves, et zenzevero; et Giongo the breast of a capon Sherebiah bono best pesto. And all these things distemperale concomitantly.
Dapo make him the dough very thin, et liga this matter will be pasta como Vole.
And these ravioli are not maiori of a meza chestnut, et Place it in them in to cook capon broth, or meat bona, yellow facto Zafra it boils. Et Lassale boil for spatio de doi Paternostro.
Dapo menestra Make it, put it over when scratched et et sweet spices mixed concomitantly. And like you Raffiolo Possoni do breast Fasani et et partridge other volatile ".
All this has the agnolini, in Lombardy (in Mantua to be precise), the agnolotti , Piedmont, the anolini in Parma and Piacenza, the tortellini , between Modena and Bologna, the Cappelletti, in Romagna, and so on.
More recently the same Pellegrino Artusi, the most considered the father of Italian cuisine , describes the ravioli use of Romagna:
" exclude the chard or spinach, here's the recipe for the ravioli all ' Use of Romagna:
Ricotta, 150 grams.
flour, 50 grams.
grated Parmesan cheese, 40 grams.
Eggs, and a red one.
Salt, to taste.
Do everything on the pastry dough and pour over a layer of flour to give it a cylindrical mesh sizes fourteen or fifteen equal pieces fashioned way . Then boil them for two or three minutes in unsalted water and toss with cheese and gravy, or serve as a side dish to a stew or a stew. "
And again, the ravioli alla Genovese:
" These, indeed, should not be summoned ravioli, because the real ravioli not made of flesh and not wrapping in pastry .
Artusi The same is confirmed that for ravioli dough is meant to be cooked without housing.
Resales and corporations
During the Middle Ages are spreading, especially in the north, the first small production activities and the sale of homemade pasta, and very popular in some cities are the corporations of lasagnari and vermicelli.
The birth of these corporations clearly demonstrates a growing appreciation of this food.
In a manuscript of the eleventh century Arab physician Ibn Abul Hasan al Muchtar Botlal, but illuminated by artists from the valley in the fifteenth century, the Tacuina sanitatis has documented the reality of these workshops, which begin to work even dried pasta (durum wheat) importing raw material from the south.
The pasta was heaped strictly hand, and spread the dough with a rolling pin.
The tools used by craftsmen of the dough (almost exclusively women) were simple: a table (spianatoio), a rolling pin, some knives, the iron frames and wires used to make formats (such as macaroni Sicily), defined precisely pulp iron.
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